Frequently Asked Questions

➣ Made-to-order items take 6-7 weeks plus shipping, unless otherwise stated in a listing. 

Q: Do you take rush orders?

A: A rush can sometimes be accommodated, but not always. Contact me with your specific request before ordering (copy/paste the link to the item, and let me know the finger size and metal color you would order). Rush fees may apply. 

Q: What does "made-to-order" mean, and what's the turnaround time?

A: I do not keep all finger sizes and colors of each piece in stock. Instead, I'll begin making your jewelry especially for you after an order is placed. This is referred to as "made-to-order" since pieces are made to specifications after ordered. Handcrafted jewelry takes time to make, so your piece may take from 6-9 weeks to craft before it ships. The current turnaround time on all pieces can be found at the top of this page, unless otherwise stated in a listing. 

Q: Do you take custom orders?

A: Unfortunately, I'm unable to take on custom work. If you like an item, but would prefer a different stone or metal, please contact me, since a slight variation might be possible. Link to the specific listing(s) to let me know which item(s) you have in mind.

Q: Can you set my stone into one of your designs?

A: Unfortunately, I'm just so busy with orders from my collection that I'm unable to set client-supplied stones. I'm only able to keep my business small and personal by narrowing the scope of what I take on, which means only selling completed rings from my collection. 

Q: Can you recycle my jewelry/gold into a new ring or piece of jewelry?

A: Unfortunately, no. Although I use recycled metals, this means I purchase gold from refineries who supply only refined metals which came from previously-mined sources. The metals may have been old jewelry at one point in their life, but they went through a very long process to reconstitute the molecular structure of the metal to make it usable as if it were new again. I do not melt down or re-work your old jewelry. If the piece isn't sentimental, I recommend sending it to a trusted refinery to get the trade-in value for your jewelry. You can then use that money toward buying your new Kristin Coffin ring. (A great way to keep the recycling process going!)

Q: Are your pieces solid gold or platinum?

A: All of my pieces are solid gold or solid platinum. I do not offer any gold-plated items. The only exception would be gold-filled chains, which I offer as an option to pair with my necklaces. 

Q: Can you make a design in silver rather than gold?

A: Unfortunately, I cannot make my gold designs in sterling silver because its not economical. The labor involved in some pieces would drive the cost of a silver piece up too high to be reasonable. I strongly recommend considering white gold. Although sterling can last with extra care, it is not as well-suited for years of everyday wear or for people who work with their hands. Golds will hold up better to everyday wear, and will require less maintenance over time.

Q: Can you make a design in 18k gold, platinum, or palladium?

A: For most pieces, the answer is YES! Please link to the item(s) you have in mind, and let me know the metal type/color and finger size you're interested in. I'm happy to let you know if that metal is possible and how much it would cost.

Q: What is a rose-cut diamond?

A: The Rose Cut is a historic cut first used on diamonds in the early 1500's. It was meant to resemble an opening rose-bud when used on a transparent diamond. The actual characteristics of the Rose is that the bottom of the diamond is flat, and forms a hemisphere or low pyramid above, covered with small facets. This is unlike the contemporary Round Brilliant Cut used commonly used today, which has a pointy cone bottom, and flat top. Rose cuts can be any shape, like oval, marquise, pear, oblong, or free form--as long as they're flat on the bottom, and gently faceted all along the top. The Rose has a subtle, earthy, romantic feel. Rose cuts have become very popular again both for white diamonds, and for rustic diamonds and gems.

Q: What is a "rustic" or "raw" diamond or gem?

A: Until fairly recently, diamonds that weren't clear, or some other entirely transparent fancy color like blue, canary yellow, or pink, were thought to be inferior by society's standards. Recent artists (only since the late 70's/early 80's) questioned the notion of "value" and the social norms associated with the white diamond. The once thrown away diamonds with inclusions, color variations, opacity, and ranging colors are now celebrated as unique, rare, and daring in the art jewelry world. Now these diamonds are called "rustic," "raw," or "natural" diamonds. They're gaining popularity with independent artists, but are still slow to catch on in the commercial world of mass-produced jewelry. These diamonds are graded differently than traditional white diamonds. The Four C's don't apply in the traditional sense. Rustic Cuts have their own standards, and different levels of value based on their rarity. Size/carat weight still matter, as does the quality of the cut and polish on the stone. Some colors are also rarer than others, and so will be more costly. What I love most about them is each is entirely unique. You can always find two VS1/H white diamonds, but finding two of the exact same rustic rose-cuts can be impossible. This makes each diamond one-of-a-kind, and entirely unique. I love pairing rose-cuts with my Twig bands, because the subtle facets play nicely with the branch's soft texture.

Q: How do I find out my finger size?

A: Go to a trusted local jewelry store in your area known for having knowledgeable sales staff. They'll size your finger free of charge--I swear, this isn't strange to do at all! All jewelry stores across the country will help you for free, without even needing to pretend to want to buy anything there. Try to go on a day when you feel most "normal" in size. Our fingers fluctuate a lot from hour to hour, day to day, and season to season. Some people's fingers will change an entire size from winter to summer, while other people's may not differ too noticeably. Avoid getting sized right after a workout, or on a sweltering hot day, or right after waking up (all of which will cause swollen fingers). Alternately, if it's snowing and freezing outside, you'll want to try to warm up your body enough that your fingers aren't unusually small when being sized. Our bodies are moving, fluctuating things, but a metal ring stays the same. The goal is to select a size that fits the best most of the time. Try to figure out your average size by going on an average day.

Also, be sure the sizers the jewelry store uses are the same width and shape as the ring you plan to purchase. For example, a narrow 1.5mm wide sizing band will feel much looser than a 5mm wide band of the same finger size. The wider the ring, the more skin it must displace, and therefore the tighter it will feel. This is also true if you plan on wearing multiple stackable rings on a finger, or a wedding and engagement ring next to each other. They'll act and feel like one wider ring, so you may need to order a slightly larger size for each. Make sure the sales staff knows how wide the actual ring(s) is you plan to order. They can compensate for the width by using a sizing band of the appropriate size, or stacking multiple thin bands to simulate stackables. For example, if you're purchasing one of my halo style rings, you'll want to try on a 2mm wide sizing band. (That's the same width as the shank of my halo rings.) You can even call the store (or a couple stores) ahead of time to see if they have sizers of that same 2mm width. If no one has that exact width of sizers, a knowledgeable staff can still help you determine what size to order based off the information you give them about the ring you plan to purchase, and how their bands fit you.

It's absolutely crucial that you find out your correct size before ordering. Many styles cannot be resized, or will cost extra to be sized again. It is your responsibility to determine your correct size. If you're concerned about which size to order for a particular style, I am happy to advise you. Just write me with your inquiry.

Q: How do I find out her finger size, without ruining the surprise?

A: Sizing is incredibly specific. So specific, that all of our fingers can differ from one to the next, so simply grabbing a ring of hers and measuring likely will not be accurate. In fact, even the width of the ring makes a difference. Please see the above FAQ to read a bit more, and also read this blog post, which has more in-depth instructions and information. Again, it's absolutely crucial that you find out her correct size before ordering. Many styles cannot be resized, or will cost extra to be sized again. It is your responsibility to determine your correct size. If you're concerned about which size to order for a particular style, please email me, as I can often help you come to a better guess. I'd also strongly recommend only ordering one ring to start if you're not 100% certain of size, and wait to order the wedding band later on.

Q: Do you ship internationally? 

A: We're located in the US, but we shipworldwide! Shipping rates for international addresses are set to $0 since FedEx prices vary by postal code and total insurance value. Contact Kristin prior to ordering to get a shipping quote. Provide your postal code, link to the item(s), and let me know the selections you'd make from the dropdown bars in the listing. 

Q: I'm in the area. Can I come see or pick up pieces in person?

A: I completely understand wanting to see pieces in person. Unfortunately, I don't have a public showroom, just a private studio. I get many, many requests to meet in person but at this time I'm not able to do so. I love how my business is small and personal, but I'm only able to keep it that way by being strict about my schedule so that I can answer all emails and complete all orders.

Additionally, most of my rings are made-to-order, which means that I don't keep a large inventory of pieces since items are made as they're purchased according to a client's color preferences, finger size, etc. Of course, I'm more than happy to answer any questions via email. Email me directly at  or click the Contact page. 

Q: What's the difference between "polished" and "matte satin" finishes?

A: Polished means a high-shine, mirror-like finish. (Think shiny gold!) It's the finish most often seen on commercially-made jewelry. A matte finish is not as shiny, with a duller overall look. A matte finish is often referred to as "brushed" or "satin." These finishes are used more frequently by artisans with handmade jewelry. I use the matte satin finish on nearly all of my bezel settings in rings. The matte satin is a nice contrast to a sparkling diamond or gemstone, and gives the jewelry a contemporary feel.